Makeup has come a long way. Foundations have expanded to suit a variety of skin tones; primers moisture while adding long-wear qualities; powders are formulated with sun protection; BB creams can handle a sweaty session at the gym. Today’s shoppers crave facial cosmetics that are luxurious, affordable, portable and reliable—therefore, marketers are stepping up to the plate when it comes to developing heavy hitters for both mass and prestige.

In the first quarter of 2019, sales of US prestige beauty products rose 1% to $4.1 billion, according to The NPD Group. Makeup sales declined 4% to $1.8 billion. Despite the downturn, various segments in the category posted gains. Setting sprays and tinted moisturizers were the fastest-growing segments within facial makeup, rising 19% and 11%, respectively.

However, in the mass market, facial cosmetic sales did not bode as well. Total facial cosmetic sales slipped slightly at 3.6% to $2.1 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended April 21, 2019. Foundation sales fell 3.7% to $967.4 million, powder dropped 6.5% to $344 million, concealer decreased 2% to $291 million, bronzer dove 12.1% to $48.5 million and blush dipped 9.3% to $125.7 million. Makeup combo fell 3.1% to $59.6 million.

According to Kelli J. Bartlett, artistic director of Glamsquad, a mobile beauty service based in New York City that just launched a makeup line, shoppers are more informed than ever.

“Consumer education is everywhere, from social media, specialty blogs and beauty destinations which have become a hub for exchanging knowledge and experiencing brands,” she told Happi. “I believe that beauty is the future and people will continue to reach out to experts and their peers for beauty advice.”

Sebastien Tardif, CEO of Veil Cosmetics, New York, agrees.

“People are becoming more and more savvy when it comes to facial color cosmetics and are paying more attention to what goes into the product. They are expecting cleaner ingredients free of negatives such as parabens, phthalates, sulfate, fragrance and looking for skin care ingredients that will benefit their complexion in the long run,” he said. “Nowadays, people turn to their phones to shop for the newest and the latest. Physical retail stores can hardly compete with online shops since novelty cosmetics can get uploaded instantly to an e-ventory and can simply be found and linked with a blog announcing the scoop and offer a direct link to that item’s source of availability.”

Mass Market Finds

Formulated to provide up to 16 hours of wear, Maybelline New York Super Stay Full Coverage Powder is a hybrid foundation/powder that is selling well, according to the company. The innovative Super Stay Powder Foundation technology provides Maybelline’s highest coverage in a powder ever, combining pigments for maximum coverage and a lasting, matte finish. The ultra-creamy formula is soft-to-the-touch, allowing a smooth application and seamless blend, according to the company. Not only can this powder be used alone for a full coverage foundation—it can also be used to set liquid foundation for added coverage, or even as a contour powder. No matter the function, this powder is sure to transform skin in seconds. Looking for liquid coverage? The Super Stay Full Coverage Foundation provides up to 24-hours of wear with a breathable, matte finish.  

Meanwhile, at CoverGirl, the big news is the relaunch of the Simply Ageless Collection and the introduction of the new Simply Ageless Instant Fix Advanced Concealer. For Simply Ageless, the entire collection has been reformulated to include hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to incorporate more skin plumping and brightening effects.

The new Simply Ageless Instant Fix Advanced Concealer offers full coverage in a lightweight formula with concentrated pigments. A rounded, sponge tip makes for easy and precise application. Simply Ageless Instant Wrinkle Defying Foundation defies wrinkles by floating over them, not accentuating them. SPF 28 guards against the aging effects of sun damage as well.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Foundation Stick is billed as a creamy, hydration-infused solid foundation that conceals and moisturizes skin. Hyaluronic acid instantly quenches skin for a smooth, radiant finish while a buildable, blendable formula can be used as foundation, concealer and contour. It offers medium coverage in a variety of hues from ivory to chestnut.  Neutrogena Hydro Boost Illuminator is a hyaluronic acid-infused highlighter that leaves skin supple and dewy for a “lit-from-within” glow. According to the company, its weightless, non-greasy, mistake-proof formula is easy-to-apply for a perfect radiant glow in moonstone, rose gold or sandstone.

The experts at Physicians Formula are committed to creating good-for-skin formulas that deliver healthy benefits and happy skin. Now, The Healthy Powder SPF 16 complements the brand’s The Healthy Foundation SPF 20 in a convenient, long- wearing powder formula that’s light as air, but filled with skin loving ingredients. Buildable and breathable, this powder can be worn alone or with foundation to create light-to-medium coverage with a smooth satin finish that’s ideal for all skin types. The formula includes an exclusive Brightening Complex (with Chinese wu-zu-yu extract) and hyaluronic acid to hydrate, brighten and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, along with vitamins A, C and E to provide the boost skin needs to look its flawless, healthiest best, according to the brand.

Available in 21 shades, Wet n Wild’s Photo Focus Stick Foundation was tested under seven different photo-lighting conditions on various skin tones. The result? With and without flash, this breakthrough product features no-flashback technology for white cast-free photos. The argan oil and sunflower seed oil-infused formula is said to glide on seamlessly for even-toned, moisturized skin. It’s creamy, buildable texture provides medium to full coverage with a soft satin finish suitable for any and every selfie moment. Also, the newly revamped wet n wild Color Icon Bronzer comes in four fabulous shades and will give a beautiful beach-babe bronze all-year-long.

The company advises fans to start with a Wet n Wild primer water in Rosé Addiction, Cool As A Cucumber and In Love With Coco. Infused with chamomile and cucumber extract, this lightweight primer soothes, refreshes and hydrates skin, while green tea extract works to nourish with rich antioxidants.

And, also big in the “ath-beauty” category at Wet n Wild is Makeup Locker, a 3-in-1 BB cream, highlighter and corrector for makeup on the go.

Hue Noir—a new cosmetics brand on a mission to change the face of beauty by putting multicultural women at the center of the modern beauty movement—offers some of the season’s hottest cosmetic colors designed specifically for consumers with nuanced skin tones.

Paula Hayes, founder of Hue Noir, Portland, OR, views the expansion of color offerings as a proponent to growing facial cosmetic sales.

“We most often hear that customers are looking for cruelty-free brands with vibrant hues, and great color payoff. With the expansion of shade ranges in foundation, they are looking for really close true-to-skin matches of foundation—for a more natural, skin-perfecting look,” she said. “Additionally, many consumers are going to indie brands to find these types of products that meet their personal beauty needs.”

Cai Para Mi is a new cosmetics brand created with the Latin customer in mind. It will debut in 500 Kroger stores on September 1 after rolling out in Walmart.com this spring. The brand is also available on Amazon and Target.com, as well as Target stores. The inspiration for the line came from founder Ralph Mandil.

After many years of manufacturing private label cosmetics, Mandil noticed an untapped, niche area of the market – quality and affordable cosmetics catering to Latino women. Working alongside a group of chemical engineers and makeup artists, together they developed a collection of cruelty-free color cosmetics formulated with olive, yellow and brown undertones. The full range consists of foundations, concealers, bronzers, highlighters, blushes and more.

Pretty in Prestige
Weightless beauty is all the rage with airy textures that do not weight down the complexion for Summer 2019.

According to Tardif of Veil Cosmetics, a silky smooth appearance is favored over sticky, dry or powdery finishes that disturb the integrity of the skin.

“It’s a normal shift and counter balance after years of pounded makeup and so called baking of concealer and contour as seen on tutorials all over the net and social media,” he told Happi. Light, glowing airy looks are key this season.

And, the newest addition to Clinique’s hero Even Better franchise promises full coverage, 24-hour wear, in a waterproof, oil-free formula that improves skin every time you wear it. Even Better Refresh instantly makes skin look more youthful, plumped and hydrated while also improving key signs of aging over time, according to the company.

This high-performance foundation immediately perfects complexion with weightless hydrating full coverage. Skin care ingredients like peptides actively and continuously improve the condition of skin. Clinique Even Better Refresh products are available in 27 shades.

Face Forward
For the upcoming year, Hayes of Hue Noir predicts the continuation of the “natural glow” in facial cosmetics to be in demand, alongside the expansions of color ranges of foundations.

Products that can be used in multiple ways (on the eyes and lips and cheeks) will help assist women who are on the go, added Bartlett of Glamsquad.

Tardif of Veil also told Happi that multitasking facial color cosmetics are all the rage and will only continue to permeate the market.

“For the upcoming year, 2-in-1, 3-in-1 products and dual usage cosmetics are simply a ‘no brainer’ for women juggling family and career while still caring for their personal health and beauty,” he said.